Car turning over but won't start?

First things first. If the car battery is good and the engine is turning over as normal (sounds normal?) - look at the instrument cluster. If the orange engine management light is flashing, you have an immobiliser issue. It only ever flashes for an immobiliser issue.

Vectra B, Astra G and Zafira were very prone to the key and the remote fob separating -either when in the ignition barrel or even just when somebody is playing with the keys. If they get separated, a tiny plastic transponder chip can drop out of the key and the immobiliser will no longer recognise it.

Very often I've been out to a non-starting car, only to find the chip sat on the mat in the footwell. It's black, just under a centimetre long and slightly wedge-shaped. On later keys they glued the chip in to prevent this.

If this happens on any other model, try your spare key. Transponders sometimes go down and you will need a new one programmed to the car. A locksmith or Vauxhall dealer will be able to do this.

Astra H models required a software update to cure this issue. This will need to be done at the dealer and most would have been cured under warranty by now.

Remote fob not working?

So many problems - sometimes very simple cures.

Vectra B/Omega B with separate fob. Fit a new battery and re-synchronise the fob by turning the ignition on and pressing the lock button. If the fob is working, it will lock and unlock the vehicle.

Astra G/Zafira/later Vectra B/Omega B (fob built into the key). Slide the fob out of the key using a small screwdriver in the slot. Open the fob with the small screwdriver and be prepared for the battery and its holder to fall out of the tiny circuit board. This would normally be time for a new fob - but a very basic fix is to cut a small piece of card or paper and fold it up to sit tight against the battery. This usually maintains contact within the fob and lets you get a couple more years out of it. Again, re-synchronise the fob if need be.

Corsa C. Usually very reliable and probably only needs a battery. Slide it out of the fob, open the fob gently (lugs either side) and replace the battery. Re-synchronise as above.

Astra H. Replacement of the battery is the usual cure but check for any signs of corrosion in the fob which will usually ruin it.

Vectra C. Early units are similar to the Vectra B and the later ones took on the Astra H style. Replace battery and re-synchronise.

If, after replacing batteries, the fobs still don't work, it is worth spraying WD40 over the printed circuit board and wiping it clean. That stuff is absolute magic and has got many a fob working for me again.

Corsa C difficult to engage gear?

Now this was a common issue. If the gearstick suddenly feels completely loose and you're finding it hard to find the gears, the gear shift linkage is worn out.


It's relatively easy to fix but might be a little daunting first time. The mechanism did cost around a hundred pounds and would take around half an hour to fit - if you were used to fitting them (a little longer for the Z13DT engine). This is a basic summary of the operation:


1) You will need to get underneath the vehicle to undo the clamp bolt on the linkage (a Torx bolt).
2) Remove the spring loaded roll pin from the gearbox end of the linkage. You must push the spring loaded clip fully in before the pin can be pushed out (a small screwdriver under the head of the pin is useful here).
3) There is a black plastic retainer holding the linkage on it's pivot (behind the engine). You will need to lever four lugs open to remove this clip and it can be awkward. You get a new in the kit so don't worry about breaking it.
4) Pull out the old linkage and place the new one onto the pivot. Line it up with the shaft from the gearstick so it can slide in and out and attach the other part of the linkage to the gearbox with the roll pin. Fit the new plastic retainer.


You are now ready to synchronise the linkage. Pull up the cover, or gaitor, from around the gearstick. Looking down, you will see a plastic guide, with a 5mm hole in, as you move the gearshift into the reverse position. Line up the hole in the guide with the one on the gearshift and lock them together with a punch or drill bit. Next, look at the gearbox itself and, on the top, you will see where the gear selector shaft comes out of the box. Close to this will be a small, plastic spring loaded button. Grab the selector shaft and turn it fully in the direction of reverse gear (imagine selecting reverse with the stick). Press the little button in and it should travel a fair way before locking the selector. If you're not sure, turn the selector the opposite way and you'll find the button won't go in as far. When the button has locked it in position, tighten the Torx bolt on the shaft underneath the vehicle. Remove the punch from the gearstick, pull up the reverse release catch on the stick and you should find it correctly synchronised.

It's not nearly as hard as it sounds.

Door check straps noisy or knocking?

If you own a Vauxhall, you'll no doubt be used to check straps - the device that stops your door opening too far and also holds it open - getting noisy.

I'll concentrate on the early models first staring with my favourite, the Corsa B (Astra F's too). Open the door and I'm sure you'll see a rusty stain appearing from the A pillar where the check strap attaches. The "roll pin" will be worn out and just needs replacing. You just tap it up and out with a hammer and punch and fit a new one in exactly the same way. Keep your knee against the door to keep pressure off as it comes out. (The parts are cheap and readily available at the dealers.) Wipe the stained paintwork with a rag and WD40 and it should look as good as new. Best of all, it will now be silent.

The other main offender is the Vectra B. Again you will need to buy a new part from a Vauxhall dealer but this time it's a small plastic bush. Undo the 10mm headed bolt out of the check strap and push the shoulder bolt up while easing pressure off it by holding the door. Remove the bush, fit the new one in and replace the bolt. Simple and easy and that annoyng knock will have disappeared!

On the later Astras (G model onwards) and Zafira's, Vectra C, Corsa C and Meriva's it is usually just a case of tightening the bolts that actually mount the check strap to body and door. Check them all for tightness and, hey presto, the noise should be gone.

You can add a little spray grease to all the moving parts too if they are coarse when moving.

Vectra B cutting out? Idling issues?

Ok, this had to be one of the most common issues with the Vectra B fitted with the X18XE or X20XEV engines. It is also applicable to other models and engines but I will concentrate on the Vectra for this post. It really should be looked at every service rather than waiting until it starts cutting out.

Basically, the inside of the throttle body gets coated in an oily black substance (from the engine breather system) around the butterfly opening. It can cut the airflow through the aperture and the idle speed control valve will struggle to keep up with demand (especially if that is also grimy). This is how to check and clean it:

1) Disconnect the multiplugs from the mass air flow meter and air temperature sender.

2) Unclip and disconnect the large breather hose from the rocker cover to the inlet hose. If this hose has collapsed and the rubber softened, replace it.

3) Remove the air inlet tube between the airbox and throttle body. Check the underside of the inlet hose for splits in the corrugations. If split, replace the hose. Don't use tape, it won't work - but will get sucked into the inlet manifold.

4) Unclip the remaining breather hose from the rocker cover (much smaller than the other one) and try to blow through it. It usually gets blocked where it joins the throttle body itself. The way I usually remove the blockage is to pull the hose off the throttle body, take a paper clip, straighten it out and push it through the tiny hole in the body itself. Sometimes it can take a little bit of poking around but will usually remove the buildup. It should push right through with ease.
If you can't get it through, it will be better to unbolt the throttle body and clean it off the car. This will involve disconnection of the TPS (throttle position sensor), the idle control valve and fuel lines so be careful and take precaution for pressurised fuel.

5) Providing we are at a stage where, one way or another, the breather hole is clear, take a rag and either an aerosol of carburettor cleaner or cellulose thinners (I prefer thinners) and hold the throttle butterfly open as you wipe around the aperture. Clean the throttle butterfly too but be careful on the edges as they are sharp and will cut your finger. Make sure it is completely clean where the butterfly closes. If you've removed the body, fit a new gasket unless the original is pristine.

6) If everything is clean, refit in reverse order and start the car. If, after following these instructions, idling is still a problem, the idle control valve could be faulty. A well aimed tap on the body of the control valve with a screwdriver handle can prove a point (it will normally cut out when hit or suddenly change from high to low revs). This can actually be cleaned but isn't always successful and, if I'm honest, is better replaced.

Aims of the site

I've seen hundreds of questions asked online about various problems with Opel or Vauxhall models and figured it might be worth creating a blog of the common faults I've dealt with in the last ten years. I won't pretend to know everything but will give you an honest opinion about your problems, tips on how easy they are to solve and when it's best to actually let a dealer take a look. Armed with my advice at a dealership, it doesn't need to be a daunting experience.

I'll make a start with faults I used to see day in, day out and as the blog rolls on, hopefully my posts everyday will be the answers to the questions you ask.