Corsa C difficult to engage gear?

Now this was a common issue. If the gearstick suddenly feels completely loose and you're finding it hard to find the gears, the gear shift linkage is worn out.


It's relatively easy to fix but might be a little daunting first time. The mechanism did cost around a hundred pounds and would take around half an hour to fit - if you were used to fitting them (a little longer for the Z13DT engine). This is a basic summary of the operation:


1) You will need to get underneath the vehicle to undo the clamp bolt on the linkage (a Torx bolt).
2) Remove the spring loaded roll pin from the gearbox end of the linkage. You must push the spring loaded clip fully in before the pin can be pushed out (a small screwdriver under the head of the pin is useful here).
3) There is a black plastic retainer holding the linkage on it's pivot (behind the engine). You will need to lever four lugs open to remove this clip and it can be awkward. You get a new in the kit so don't worry about breaking it.
4) Pull out the old linkage and place the new one onto the pivot. Line it up with the shaft from the gearstick so it can slide in and out and attach the other part of the linkage to the gearbox with the roll pin. Fit the new plastic retainer.


You are now ready to synchronise the linkage. Pull up the cover, or gaitor, from around the gearstick. Looking down, you will see a plastic guide, with a 5mm hole in, as you move the gearshift into the reverse position. Line up the hole in the guide with the one on the gearshift and lock them together with a punch or drill bit. Next, look at the gearbox itself and, on the top, you will see where the gear selector shaft comes out of the box. Close to this will be a small, plastic spring loaded button. Grab the selector shaft and turn it fully in the direction of reverse gear (imagine selecting reverse with the stick). Press the little button in and it should travel a fair way before locking the selector. If you're not sure, turn the selector the opposite way and you'll find the button won't go in as far. When the button has locked it in position, tighten the Torx bolt on the shaft underneath the vehicle. Remove the punch from the gearstick, pull up the reverse release catch on the stick and you should find it correctly synchronised.

It's not nearly as hard as it sounds.

Door check straps noisy or knocking?

If you own a Vauxhall, you'll no doubt be used to check straps - the device that stops your door opening too far and also holds it open - getting noisy.

I'll concentrate on the early models first staring with my favourite, the Corsa B (Astra F's too). Open the door and I'm sure you'll see a rusty stain appearing from the A pillar where the check strap attaches. The "roll pin" will be worn out and just needs replacing. You just tap it up and out with a hammer and punch and fit a new one in exactly the same way. Keep your knee against the door to keep pressure off as it comes out. (The parts are cheap and readily available at the dealers.) Wipe the stained paintwork with a rag and WD40 and it should look as good as new. Best of all, it will now be silent.

The other main offender is the Vectra B. Again you will need to buy a new part from a Vauxhall dealer but this time it's a small plastic bush. Undo the 10mm headed bolt out of the check strap and push the shoulder bolt up while easing pressure off it by holding the door. Remove the bush, fit the new one in and replace the bolt. Simple and easy and that annoyng knock will have disappeared!

On the later Astras (G model onwards) and Zafira's, Vectra C, Corsa C and Meriva's it is usually just a case of tightening the bolts that actually mount the check strap to body and door. Check them all for tightness and, hey presto, the noise should be gone.

You can add a little spray grease to all the moving parts too if they are coarse when moving.

Vectra B cutting out? Idling issues?

Ok, this had to be one of the most common issues with the Vectra B fitted with the X18XE or X20XEV engines. It is also applicable to other models and engines but I will concentrate on the Vectra for this post. It really should be looked at every service rather than waiting until it starts cutting out.

Basically, the inside of the throttle body gets coated in an oily black substance (from the engine breather system) around the butterfly opening. It can cut the airflow through the aperture and the idle speed control valve will struggle to keep up with demand (especially if that is also grimy). This is how to check and clean it:

1) Disconnect the multiplugs from the mass air flow meter and air temperature sender.

2) Unclip and disconnect the large breather hose from the rocker cover to the inlet hose. If this hose has collapsed and the rubber softened, replace it.

3) Remove the air inlet tube between the airbox and throttle body. Check the underside of the inlet hose for splits in the corrugations. If split, replace the hose. Don't use tape, it won't work - but will get sucked into the inlet manifold.

4) Unclip the remaining breather hose from the rocker cover (much smaller than the other one) and try to blow through it. It usually gets blocked where it joins the throttle body itself. The way I usually remove the blockage is to pull the hose off the throttle body, take a paper clip, straighten it out and push it through the tiny hole in the body itself. Sometimes it can take a little bit of poking around but will usually remove the buildup. It should push right through with ease.
If you can't get it through, it will be better to unbolt the throttle body and clean it off the car. This will involve disconnection of the TPS (throttle position sensor), the idle control valve and fuel lines so be careful and take precaution for pressurised fuel.

5) Providing we are at a stage where, one way or another, the breather hole is clear, take a rag and either an aerosol of carburettor cleaner or cellulose thinners (I prefer thinners) and hold the throttle butterfly open as you wipe around the aperture. Clean the throttle butterfly too but be careful on the edges as they are sharp and will cut your finger. Make sure it is completely clean where the butterfly closes. If you've removed the body, fit a new gasket unless the original is pristine.

6) If everything is clean, refit in reverse order and start the car. If, after following these instructions, idling is still a problem, the idle control valve could be faulty. A well aimed tap on the body of the control valve with a screwdriver handle can prove a point (it will normally cut out when hit or suddenly change from high to low revs). This can actually be cleaned but isn't always successful and, if I'm honest, is better replaced.

Aims of the site

I've seen hundreds of questions asked online about various problems with Opel or Vauxhall models and figured it might be worth creating a blog of the common faults I've dealt with in the last ten years. I won't pretend to know everything but will give you an honest opinion about your problems, tips on how easy they are to solve and when it's best to actually let a dealer take a look. Armed with my advice at a dealership, it doesn't need to be a daunting experience.

I'll make a start with faults I used to see day in, day out and as the blog rolls on, hopefully my posts everyday will be the answers to the questions you ask.